Credit. Is there any word that brings up such simultaneous feelings among consumers of dread, worry, and despair, mingled with hope and that unique feeling that one can simply ask for and receive anything on the planet? Few other concepts can bring forth such strong, opposing emotions as the ability to borrow untold sums of money with the simple swipe of a credit card, or a meaningless signature on an equally meaningless piece of paper. For many, though, this pleasurable godsend soon becomes a necessity for consumers, much like water and shelter.

In fact, it is when when one begins using credit to pay for such basic necessities as food, water, and shelter, that credit rears its uglier head and slowly begins to drown the consumer in higher and higher mounds of interest. Homeowners may use high-interest credit cards to pay back their high-interest mortgage, or finance a month of groceries on their credit cards, or may even borrow money to pay for the gas they use to get to work. Once this happens on a continual basis, consumers can find themselves in serious financial trouble. And getting back on top of the situation becomes more and more remote a possibility.

In this situation, all that is needed to push the consumers into bankruptcy, foreclosure, or worse is one financial hardship. A loss of job, unexpected medical expense, or major necessary home improvement can make the difference between the homeowners falling further into the danger zone and simply falling right over the edge into ruin.

Usually, by the time the financial hardship occurs, the consumers have begun falling behind on one bill or another, using credit to pay back credit, or attempting to open new lines of credit to sustain their unsustainable consumption. They know it can not last, and that they are toeing the line between bad decision and financial devastation, but they continue their spending/borrowing cycle until their creditors finally pull the plug on the free money machine. Rather than using logic and common sense, in order to keep their expenses as low as possible, while understanding that borrowing money makes them slaves to the creditor, these consumers procrastinate facing reality until they are at the grocery store and find out that none of their colorful credit cards will any longer be exchanged for real goods and services.

Of course, this is not all the consumers’ fault, although they bear nearly all of the responsibility for their own lives and financial decisions. Consumers, though, are bred and trained to conform to the culture of consumption. From a school system which teaches children to be bored unless a superior gives them something to do and discourages critical thinking, to a television which tells people to purchase the newest thing and borrow money if they can not afford it, to a culture of glorified instant millionaires who did nothing of substance to earn their wealth, the average person is simply overwhelmed with a lack of choices.

Either consume or be left behind. Get version 1.5.7.987 instead of 1.5.7.986 or else you will be out of date and unable to keep up with everyone else. Increase your ability to borrow by 2,000% and finance a new car with a piece of plastic. Treat your home and everything else you own as an ATM and just keep borrowing forever.

Through this Hegelian gauntlet of credit and financial woes, it would be expected that people long ago would have learned from the horrific stories of others. But with the prevailing attitude of consumers and message of advertisers being “Bad things can’t happen to me — I’m going to be a millionaire by the middle of next week,” it is little wonder that so few learn that credit can be the most dangerous trap of all, creating wage slaves for life. And to think — none of the credit even existed until the consumers agreed that they would pay it back. Credit is an mirage powerful enough to make willing slaves of people. What else has that power?

Technorati Tags: credit, Credit Cards, credit trap

Please look at our sponsors to help us pay for hosting this blog

Get Your Free Credit Report from Experian

Open WaMu Free Checking Account with only a $1 or more get Free ATM withdrawals, cash back for debit card use, free checks. Learn more!

• 0 Comments

By Liz Pulliam Weston

Understanding how credit works is about to become even more important.

Not only has the subprime meltdown made almost all credit harder to come by, but Fair Isaac, the company that created the leading FICO credit score, has announced changes to its formula.

As a result, some behaviors that may not have hurt your score much in the past could cause your numbers to plunge, while other actions could help you boost your score more than in the past. For example:

• Applying for new credit accounts may hurt less.

• Having high balances on your credit cards could hurt more.

• Actively using the credit accounts you have may be more important.

• Having both revolving and installment accounts on your report could help you more, as the new formula is more sensitive to your ability to handle different types of credit.

Some things about the latest iteration of the score, dubbed FICO 08, will remain the same. FICO 08 will have the same 300 to 850 range as the classic FICO score in widespread use today, with higher scores indicating lower risk of default — and thus winning you lower interest rates, cheaper insurance premiums, better deals on cell phones and lower utility deposits, to name just a few of the ways credit scores are used.

Fair Isaac says most consumers will see a slight increase in their FICO 08 scores compared with their classic FICO numbers, but others will see a drop.

The company says the new formula will do a better job of predicting who’s a good risk and who’s a bad one, particularly among consumers:

• With troubled, thin or short credit histories.

• Who are actively seeking credit.

• Who have “piggybacked” on others’ good credit.

New reality, new credit rules

The piggybacking issue received some attention last year after credit-repair companies took advantage of a long-standing loophole regarding authorized users on a credit card. The loophole allowed one consumer’s good credit history on a card to be imported into the credit report of another who was added to the card as an authorized user.

Those credit-repair companies arranged “rentals” of authorized user slots on the cards of people with good credit to artificially boost the scores of people with bad credit. Some of those with tarnished histories paid fees to be added to dozens of strangers’ cards, lifting their scores more than 100 points.

Lenders protested, and Fair Isaac announced its new version of the FICO score would ignore authorized-user information.

The new formula also takes a closer look at people who have credit problems. Fair Isaac said FICO 08 will be less punishing to those who have had a single serious credit setback, such as a charge-off or a repossession, as long as their other active credit accounts are all in good standing.

Finally, the new formula reflects the fact that consumers today are more active seekers and users of credit, applying for more credit cards and other accounts than in the past. Having a “moderate amount” of credit inquiries on our credit reports — inquiries that reflect our own efforts to open accounts — won’t be as detrimental to our scores under the new formula, said Fair Isaac spokesman Craig Watts. He declined to define “moderate amount,” however, saying Fair Isaac isn’t comfortable revealing more information about the formula.

7 great moves, no matter who’s counting

Fuzzy language isn’t the only uncertainty surrounding the new score. It’s also hard to predict how long it will be before FICO 08 is in widespread use. Fair Isaac has released three previous upgrades to its formula in the past, and each time some lenders have been slow to upgrade to the latest versions.

The plot is even thicker this time. In 2006, the three credit bureaus started promoting a rival to the classic FICO score called the VantageScore, which they say does a better job of predicting risk. Fair Isaac sued the bureaus last year, accusing them of unfair and uncompetitive practices that it said harmed the FICO brand.

Although Experian and TransUnion will likely offer FICO 08 to lenders by spring, the third bureau, Equifax, says it won’t offer the score until the lawsuit is resolved.

To hedge your bets and make sure you get the best possible score regardless of the formula used, consider the following:

• Scour your credit reports. Your credit score is derived entirely from the information on your credit reports at the three bureaus, and a single serious error can cost you big time. You’re entitled to a free annual look at your reports from www.annualcreditreport.com. Dispute any accounts that aren’t yours or any negative entries that are more than seven years old (or 10 years in case of bankruptcy).

• Don’t be late. Skipping a single payment can knock your score from prime to near subprime territory overnight. Make sure all your bills are paid on time. Consider setting up automatic or recurring payments for all your credit accounts.

• Watch your balances. The less of your credit lines that you use, the better. Try not to use more than 30% of your credit card limits at any time during the month; using 10% or less is even better. Remember that the credit bureaus and your credit scores don’t distinguish between balances you pay off and those you carry month to month; the balance that’s reported to the bureaus is typically the one that shows on your most recent monthly statement. If you’re in the habit of using a big portion of your credit limits — because you travel on business or are chasing credit card rewards — consider asking for higher credit limits. (You also could make two payments a month on each high-use card to lower the balance that’s reported to the bureaus. To make this work properly, you’ll need to make one payment just before the statement closing date on the account and a second after the closing date but before the due date. If you fail to make the second payment, you may be reported to the bureaus as being late.)

• Don’t close accounts. Fair Isaac has made it clear that closing accounts can never help a classic FICO score and may hurt it. With FICO 08, that’s even truer. The new scoring formula wants to see evidence that you are actively and responsibly using credit. So you get more points for having open accounts in good standing; conversely, having a higher proportion of closed accounts can hurt you more.

• Keep your accounts active. In the past, the biggest risk from letting accounts be inactive is that your lenders might close them, thus dinging your scores. Now simply having too many inactive accounts could count against you in some circumstances. Once again, the new scoring formula is looking for evidence you can responsibly manage credit. Consider keeping your oldest and highest-limit cards active by charging something to them each month (making sure to pay the balance off in full, of course).

• Piggyback the right way. You still can benefit from someone else’s good credit under both the old and new FICO formulas by being added as a joint account holder to a credit card. In most cases, the other person’s history with the card will be added to your credit reports; as long as the account remains in good standing, it can help your scores. But being added as a joint account holder involves more risk: You’re now jointly responsible for the debt, whereas an authorized user typically would not be. Getting taken off the account isn’t easy, either. A phone call from the primary cardholder might remove the name of an authorized user, but you often can’t be removed from a joint account until it’s closed.

• Consider an installment loan. There are two main types of credit: revolving accounts that allow you to build up and pay down balances, and installment loans that typically have fixed payments that require you to pay down your balance over time. Credit cards and lines of credit are examples of revolving accounts, while auto loans and mortgages are considered installment loans. The FICO formula has always rewarded folks who had and successfully managed both types, which is why getting an installment loan was often recommended as a way for people with troubled credit to rehabilitate their scores. The new scoring formula is even more sensitive to the mix of credit types people have and use. In the past, people were able to get and keep very high scores using only credit cards; it’s not clear if that will still be true under FICO 08.

Technorati Tags: credit, credit score, fico, free credit report

Please look at our sponsors to help us pay for hosting this blog

Get Your Free Credit Report from Experian

Open WaMu Free Checking Account with only a $1 or more get Free ATM withdrawals, cash back for debit card use, free checks. Learn more!

• 0 Comments

Personally, I think that paying someone to fix your credit is a waste of money… There are SOME cases where I think it is appropriate to hire an attorney to assist you in dealing with issues you can’t deal with yourself but for the most part credit repair is something you can do yourself for free. Below is some information I wanted to share.

• No one can erase negative information if it’s accurate.
  Only incorrect information can be removed. Accurate information stays on your record for 7 years from the time it’s reported (10 years for bankruptcy). Even information about bills you fell behind on but now are paid will remain on your report for these time periods.

• Credit repair services can’t ask for payment until they’ve kept their promises.
  Federal law also requires credit repair services to give you a explanation of your legal rights, a detailed written contract, and three days to cancel (this applies to for-profit services, not to nonprofit organizations, banks and credit unions, or the creditors themselves).

• Be cautious about emails for credit services.
  Many unsolicited emails are fraudulent.

• You can correct mistakes on your credit report yourself.
  If you were recently denied credit because of information in your credit report, you have the right to request a free copy. Otherwise there is a small fee, unless your state law provides for one free report a year. It doesn’t cost anything to question or dispute items in your report. Follow the instructions provided by the credit bureau. Contact all three, as the information each has may vary. You can find alot of information here about how to obtain your credit report and dispute negative items.

• You can add an explanation to your report.
  If there is a good reason why you weren’t able to pay bills on time (job loss, sudden illness, etc.) or you refused to pay for
  something because of a legitimate dispute, give the credit bureau a short statement to include in your file.

• Know that you can’t create a second credit file.
  Fraudulent companies sometimes offer to provide consumers with different tax identification or social security numbers in order to create a new credit file. This practice, called “file segregation,� is illegal, and it doesn’t work.

Technorati Tags: credit, credit bureau, Credit Repair, credit repair scams, credit score, fico

Please look at our sponsors to help us pay for hosting this blog

Get Your Free Credit Report from Experian

Open WaMu Free Checking Account with only a $1 or more get Free ATM withdrawals, cash back for debit card use, free checks. Learn more!

• 0 Comments

What the information provided in this article does is help you fix ERRORS on your credit report and clean up those “questionable” items. While no one can legally remove accurate negative information from a credit report, the law does allow you to request a reinvestigation of information in your file that you dispute as inaccurate or incomplete. On the other hand, it is perfectly legal to challenge ANYTHING on your credit report. The whole key to repairing your credit is that if the credit bureu cannot verify information on your credit report they must remove it. For instance, if a credit bureau cannot contact a collection agency which is reporting a collection on your report, they cannot verify the information, and the credit bureau must delete the entry.

BASIC CREDIT REPAIR STRATEGY:

1. Get and review your credit report.
2. Analyze your report.
3. Make a list of all items you consider to be questionable or negative. Clearly identify each item in your report that you dispute, explain why you dispute the information,
4. Write a dispute letter bureaus.
5. Send the letter to the credit bureaus. Make sure you send it registered or certified mail.
6. Document your efforts. Record when you sent your letters, and the results.
7. Wait for the credit bureaus to investigate your disputes.
8. Analyze the results.
9. Repeat.
10. Free Sample Letter
11. What if a removed negative item comes back on my credit report?
12. What if I get stuck and need help?

That’s all there is to it. Seems easy enough but you must have patience, because the credit bureaus are not always very cooperative. They make their money by providing credit reports to lenders not by fixing bad information in their databases.

1. Get your credit reports

The cheapest way to get a copy of your credit report from all 3 reporting agencies is to visit AnnualCreditReport.com. NOTE: when you get your free reports, you will not see your credit score. Your credit score is the measure to see if you have actually improved your credit. I recommend MyFico.com because they give you your actual FICO score (also known as BEACON). There are a few out there that give you your actual FICO score… but most don’t. Avoid services that say "FICO Plus!" or anything like that.

2. Analyze your credit report.

What do all of those code mean?

3. Questionable or Negative Items

The items here are listed in order of descending importance with the first item being the “most damaging” to your credit.

• Bankruptcy
• Foreclosure
• Repossession
• Loan Default
• Court Judgments
• Collections
• Past due payments
• Late Payments
• Credit Rejections
• Credit Inquiries

Also, if your creditor has NOT notified you of negative information they have recently placed on your credit report, they are currently in violation of the Fair Credit Reporting Act. You can use this to pressure the original creditor to remove the listing by reminding them they are in violation of the FCRA by not notifying you.

4. Requesting Corrections and Disputing Your Credit

What should you challenge?

Everything, and you should always shoot for a complete deletion. In your initial challenge, don’t dispute the information within a collection listing, charge-off, court record, repossession, foreclosure, or settled account. The easiest items to have deleted are items that are older then 7 years. All of those items will be deleted (except bankruptcy… which stays 10 years). Think about the account and what the most reasonable reason is for it to be deleted.

LIST OF REASONS

1. Not mine (not my account)
2. I didn’t pay late that month
3. Wrong amount owed
4. Wrong account number
5. Wrong original creditor
6. Wrong Charge-off Date
7. Wrong Date of Last Activity
8. Wrong Balance
9. Wrong Credit limit
10. Wrong Status (there are about 20)
11. Wrong High Credit (the highest amount you used)
12. I paid the account and it’s showing a balance
13. It’s been more then 7 years since it was first reported
14. Any combination of the above

What items are the toughest to get off your report?

You will have the toughest time getting bankruptcies, judgments, child support and foreclosures off of your credit report as these things are so easy for the credit bureaus to verify. In the case of a bankruptcy, you most likely will have a few trade lines saying “included in Bankruptcy”. If you want to challenge your bankruptcy, you need to clear off all credit lines mentioning a BK FIRST.

5. Make sure you send everything registered or certified mail.

This is important, as you must be able to tell when letters were sent and received. It gives you some leverage with the Credit Reporting Agencies if they don’t respond in the time frame required by law. You need to be documenting everything, and you want to make sure that you have a complete record of your disputes.

6. Document Your Credit Repair Efforts

As soon as you have ordered your credit reports and photocopied your order letters and checks, you must create a precise organizational system to track your correspondences with the credit bureaus and your creditors. Why is this necessary? Unfortunately, credit items you have worked so hard to remove mysteriously reappear. If this happens, it is usually easy to have the items deleted permanently if you show your complete records on the first removal. Why take a chance? As you proceed through these steps, keep copies and records of all correspondence you send and receive. Copies of all correspondence are a must, as well as notes on all telephone conversations! Also, if you should encounter any special difficulty and would like help in repairing your credit, you will need these records to proceed.

7. Wait for the credit bureau to finishing investigating

Once the credit reporting agency has received your dispute letter, they are obligated to investigate. This obligation is not contingent upon you having been denied credit. According to the Fair Credit Reporting Act, the credit bureaus must take the following steps:

• The credit reporting agencies must resolve consumers’ disputes within 30 days limit, unless you have used the services of annualcreditreport.com, then the bureaus can take up to 45 days.
• In response to consumers’ complaints that documentation in support of their disputes was disregarded, the credit bureaus have to consider and transmit to the furnisher all relevant evidence submitted by the consumer the first time.
• Consumers will receive written notice of the results of the investigation within five days of its completion, including a copy of the amended credit file if it changed based on the dispute.
• Once information is deleted from a credit file, the credit bureaus can not reinsert it unless the entity supplying the information certifies that the item is complete and accurate and the credit bureau notifies the consumer within five days.

The Federal Trade Commission says that inaccurate credit reports are the number-one source of consumer complaints, and that it is quite common for problems to take six or more months to be resolved. All of the big-three agencies are working on making sure that all disputes are handled within 30 days.

If the new investigation reveals an error, you may ask that a corrected version of the report be sent to anyone who received your report within the past six months. Job applicants can have corrected reports sent to anyone who received a report for employment purposes during the past two years. However, this is unlikely to repair any damage done when your credit report was first pulled, so don’t waste your time or energy on this approach.

8. Evaluate the results of your repair efforts.

You did save the original credit report your ordered, didn’t you? And each item you challenged? Good, you will need them to evaluate how well you did. It’s all part of Step 5 above, documenting your efforts. When you get your “repaired” credit report back from the credit bureaus, they will summarize what changed on your credit report due to your challenges. You can compare this list to your own notes or just to the previous credit report.

The results of each item will have been resolved in one of five different ways:

1. If the listing is not mentioned in the results list, you must have forgotten to include it, or your request was not sufficiently clear. You will need to dispute the item again in your next dispute letter. The bureaus are legally obligated to respond in writing within 30 days, so if they don’t, it is highly unlike they are ignoring you.
2. The disputed item was investigated but verified. If you don’t get the item removed, most likely, the credit bureaus will have just given you a cryptic reason as to why like “item verified”. The law required that the bureaus accept any proof you may submit, as well as to pass any documentation you provide on to your creditor for consideration, so be sure to send any documentation you can, if you didn’t do it the first time. I would also ask them for the proof with which they verified the item, which is going to force them to expose the fact that they are using eOscar. You could also try disputing the listing again at a future time. Who knows, you may get lucky, and a different employee of the creditor may not be able to verify the item.
3. The disputed listing was investigated as to the correctness of the information within the listing (such as late pay notations) and the listing was found to be inaccurate or unverifiable. Remember, if the creditor doesn’t respond to the bureau at all, this is the same as the listing being unverifiable. In this case, the negative listing will now show up as a positive listing, or it will be deleted from your report all together. This is the best possible outcome.

9. Repeat your credit bureau dispute:

It’s a good idea to keep disputing negative listings with the credit bureaus. If you hit on the right dispute, the listing could get completely removed from your report. For instance, if you dispute the date the account was opened, and the credit bureaus can not verify this information they may pull the whole listing. You will need to change the reason for the investigation so the credit bureau will have something new to investigate. Keep trying reasons from THE LIST. For example, the first time you challenge a listing, you might say the account is “not mine.” The second time through, you would say “never late.”

10. Sample Letter to dispute items

Sample Dispute Letter

Date

Your Name

Your Address

Your City, State, Zip Code

Complaint Department

Name of Company

Address

City, State, Zip Code

Dear Sir or Madam:

I am writing to dispute the following information in my file. The items I dispute also are encircled on the attached copy of the report I received.

This item (identify item(s) disputed by name of source, such as creditors or tax court, and identify type of item, such as credit account, judgment, etc.) is (inaccurate or incomplete) because (describe what is inaccurate or incomplete and why). I am requesting that the item be deleted (or request another specific change) to correct the information.

Enclosed are copies of (use this sentence if applicable and describe any enclosed documentation, such as payment records, court documents) supporting my position. Please investigate this (these) matter(s) and (delete or correct) the disputed item(s) as soon as possible.

Sincerely,

Your name

Enclosures: (List what you are enclosing)

11. What if a removed negative item comes back on my credit report?

Ok, you’ve removed a listing and are breathing a deep sigh of relief. Then you get a letter in the mail from a credit bureau telling you the item has been added back on. What happened?

Reverified listings

This is actually becoming more commonplace: since the new credit laws require that the bureaus investigate and resolve your disputes within 30 days, they will sometimes remove the negative information temporarily until they get the information verified as true. Then they will put back any information verified to be true and notify you of this. By law, they can do this, but they have to notify you in writing.

If they DO NOT notify you in writing, it is an instant violation of the FCRA with a $1000 file PAYABLE TO YOU.

12. What if I get stuck?

Are you stuck and have a quick question? I recommend you visit Credit Boards.

Technorati Tags: beacon, credit, credit bureau, credit rating, Credit Repair, credit score, facta, fcra, fico

Please look at our sponsors to help us pay for hosting this blog

Get Your Free Credit Report from Experian

Open WaMu Free Checking Account with only a $1 or more get Free ATM withdrawals, cash back for debit card use, free checks. Learn more!

• 0 Comments

When you first receive your Trans Union, Experian and Equifax credit reports, you might be totally lost. The information is coded in a way that is not immediately readable by the average consumer. Each credit report should arrive with a key that interprets the codes and indicators on the credit report. Sit down with the credit report and the key and study it until you understand what each number and code means.

Don’t write on your original credit report — yet. Make all of your notes on a copy of the report. You will be sending your original report with your dispute letter, so you should make at least two copies of each new report. The original goes with the dispute, one copy is for notes, and the other copy is what you will send in to the credit agency.

Gather a yellow and orange highlighter pen. Whenever you identify a negative listing, mark the listing in yellow on your scratch copy of the credit report.

Very often, it is difficult to tell if an item on the credit report is negative or positive. The following table will help you identify every negative listing on your credit reports.

Negative Credit Indicators

If the listing contains one or more of these indicators, then the listing is negative. If the listing contains none of these indicators, then the listing is positive.

Experian (formerly TRW) Credit Report

• any item marked with an asterisk any inquiry

Trans Union Credit Report

• any item rated higher than I1, M1, or R1.
• any item listed as repossession, foreclosure, profit and loss write-off charge-off,
• paid profit and loss
• write-off, paid charge off, settled, settled for less than full balance, or included in bankruptcy
• any collection amount, whether paid or not.
• any court account, including a lien, judgment, bankruptcy chapters 11, 7, or 13, divorce, satisfied lien, or satisfied judgment.
• any item showing one or more thirty, sixty, or ninety day late payments in the column to the far right.
• any inquiry.

Equifax Credit Report

• any item rated higher than I1, M1, or R1 (such as R2 or I9).
• any item proceeded by a “>>>>” icon.
• any item listed as repossession, foreclosure, profit and loss write-off charge-off, paid profit and loss write-off, paid charge off, settled, settled for less than full balance, or included in bankruptcy.
• any collection amount, whether paid or not.
• any court account, including a lien, judgment, bankruptcy chapters 11, 7, or 13, divorce, satisfied lien, or satisfied judgment.
• any item showing one or more thirty, sixty, or ninety day late payments in the column to the far right.
• any inquiry.

Those I2 and R9 codes - what do they mean?

R- Revolving (usually a credit card)

I - installment (like home or auto loan)

R1 or I1 = pays as agreed never late

R2 or I2 = 30 days late

R3 or I3 = 60 days late

R4 or I4 = 90 days late

R5 or I5 = 120 days late

R7 or I7 = making regular payments under wage earner plan

R8 or I8 = repossession

R9 or I9 = charge off

Generic FICO Scores

It’s more common nowadays to use a shared scoring system. The “branded” name is FICO and it’s quickly becoming the “generic” term (much like Band-Aid and Q-Tip respectively). This scoring system allows lenders to see your “big picture” without needing to look line by line to see if you’ve been naughty or nice. Some lenders will have automatic disqualifiers such as Bankruptcies, Charge Off’s or simply from being late in the last 6 months etc. regardless of your score.

What it means:

• O = Open (entire amount due each month i.e. AMEX)
• R = Revolving (payment amount variable i.e. VISA)
• I = Installment (fixed number of payments i.e. Auto loans)
• 0 = Approved, no rating
• 1 = Paid as agreed
• 2 = 30+ days late
• 3 = 60+ days late
• 4 = 90+ days late
• 5 = 120+ days late or collection
• 7 = Making regular payments under wage earner or similar plan
• 8 = Repossession
• 9 = Charged off to bad debt
• J = Joint
• I = Individual
• U = Undesignated
• A = Authorized User
• T = Terminated
• M = Maker
• C = Co-Maker/Co-Signer
• B = On behalf of another person
• S = Shared

Hope this helps.

Technorati Tags: credit, credit report, credit score, fico

Please look at our sponsors to help us pay for hosting this blog

Get Your Free Credit Report from Experian

Open WaMu Free Checking Account with only a $1 or more get Free ATM withdrawals, cash back for debit card use, free checks. Learn more!

• 0 Comments